Part 8: Painting the Damn Thing (Yes, You Can Do It Yourself)

They say paint can make or break a build—and they’re right. It’s the first thing people see, and it’s the one part of the process where your personal style really gets to take over. But if you’re broke and half clueless (like I was), paying someone thousands for a custom paint job isn’t in the cards. So I painted it myself. Plus. . . . I’m like an artist, so ofc I painted it myself.

This week’s blog is all about how I did it, what I used, what I learned, and how you can pull it off without a paint booth or pro experience.

Deciding the Look

Before I even picked up a rattle can or spray gun, I spent way too much time obsessing over the look. I knew I didn’t want a showroom-shiny paint job. I wanted something that matched the spirit of the bike—gritty, handmade, and a little bit wild.

There are a million directions you can go:

• Rattle-can rat rod vibes
• Classic scallops and flake
• Patina or faux-aged
• Solid black because you’re over it

I went with a mix of ideas I’d seen on old diggers and psychedelic tanks—stuff that felt hand-done and imperfect in the best way.

Materials & Setup

I didn’t have a booth. I barely had a clean space. But I did what I could with what I had.

Here’s what I used:

• Sandpaper (500 grit up to 5000+)
• Primer
• A couple quarts of polyurethane basecoat paint in your color of choice
  • I used Fiat Periwinkle 413 (https://everestautomotivemarket.com/custom-mixed-paint/fiat/fiat-periwinkle-413/?variation_id=938629)
• 2K clear coat
• Masking tape, newspapers, tarps, etc.
• Respirator (you need this for 2K)
• A dusty corner of the garage with zero airflow and not enough umph to power your air compressor.
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• Extra breakers for your old-ass garage bc it’ll blow the second you start to spray
  
  • Get the full list here:https://amzn.to/46o0gSc 

If you’re doing anything fancy—like metal flake or candy—you’ll probably need a gun setup and a compressor. But for a clean, solid paint job? You can absolutely get away with rattle cans if you take your time. Honestly, I could’ve gone with rattle cans (Everst offered that actually!), but I didn’t realize it would give the same result. . . . so learn from me!

The Process

I ordered all my pieces (fenders, tank, frame, oil bag) from Lowbrow, so they came bare and ready to paint. Then hit them with a self-etching primer. That part’s not glamorous, but it matters. Every flaw will show up later if you skip the prep.

Next came the base coat, then the second, and even a third (wet sanded in between each coat) to really get the most saturated periwinkle I could. Once I was happy, I laid down clear and let it cure as long as I could stand it (which, if we’re being real, was barely enough).

Then came the fun part! I pinstriped, used variegated gold flake, and Alphanamel paints to work up my iconic (is that conceited to say? idc) paint job featuring Japanese Meji-Era hand painted designs (dualing dragon and tiger tank, rooster, spider and web, flames, and goldfish). Topped it off with Rust paste (meant for model cars) and bam! That’s it!

What I Learned

• Prep is everything. You can’t rush sanding and cleaning.
• Humidity and/or the cold is your enemy. I sprayed everything in February in a cold garage and it was so cold the paint couldn’t cure properly.
• Tape pulls paint. Be careful removing masking tape too soon or too aggressively.
• Imperfect is better than overworked. I almost ruined the vibe trying to “fix” a spot that wasn’t actually that bad.

This part of the build felt the most me. I got to bring the vision full circle and leave my fingerprints all over it—literally. A little paint on your hands never hurt anyone.And the best part? When people ask who painted it, I get to say: I did.